"My Love of the Very Stripey French Marinière Shirt"
- Carol Dammel Meadows
- Apr 30, 2024
- 4 min read
Updated: Jul 18, 2024
Breton Shirt, Marinière Shirt, French Striped Shirt, Coco Chanel, French Fashion, Brittany, Normandy, Nautical Clothing
by Carol Dammel April 30, 2024
Recently while watching an episode of a French Language murder mystery, “The Mountain Detective” I was struck for at least the 100th time just how timeless, ubiquitous, tried-and-true and well made the classic French shirt, la Marinière or the Breton is. So I decided it was time to read up on its history a bit and share my findings with you.
A classic French Marinière is a cotton long-sleeved shirt with horizontal blue and white stripes. Traditionally worn by sailors in the French Navy and also known as a Breton shirt it is also become a staple in civilian French Fashion. The eponymous striped garment is often part of the stereotypical image of a French person. But the French do indeed proudly wear this classic garment so at least this stereotype is apt.
The Breton or Marinière has come a long way from its humble origins as a garment worn by fishermen and sailors in northern France. Why fisherman and sailors have long had a penance for stripes is a subject for another blog. But one of my favorite explanations is that it made sailors stand out while on shore thus making them more noticeable to prospective paramours or as a signal to "not mess with me". Whatever it's origins the oceanic stripes live on strong today. Indeed, the striped top continues to be worn by French sailors and has sailed into the closets of chic women and men around the world. Eyeroll, hey the un chic love them as well.
Having grown up with a mother who was an outstanding seamstress I learned that a mark of quality in striped (or plaid for that matter) clothing is that the lines match up. In other words, the stripes on the sleeves or pockets line up with the stripes on the shirt. I guess this is one of the reasons the French made versions often catch my eye - because they are ever present and often so well made. Wearing stripes always make me a little nervous but they still intrigue me.
The Marinière made its first appearance in the 18th century on the backs of fishermen in Brittany and Normandy. In 1858 it became the official uniform of the French Navy’s seamen. The sailor stripe pattern is made up of precisely 21 white and 20 (or sometimes 21 if the sailor is tall) blue stripes The 21 stripes represent the victories of Napoleon Bonaparte against the British, so it is said. Legend says sailors wore this garment to be easily spotted if they fell overboard. I doubt that's very scientific. Blue is hardly a good color for being spotted in the water. I think its origins are likely more complicated than that. Perhaps a sailors mother had blue and white yarn and knitted a stripey sweater for her loved one and the look caught on. It could have happened this way. The shirt was also appreciated for its ability to regulate body temperature and dry quickly. This striped garment came to symbolize the strength and discipline of French naval troops.
A proper cotton (the most common) or tightly knit wool marinière must be made in France. Many are designed in France but not made in France, primarily for cost reasons. Today, there are only four main manufacturers producing in France, Saint James (1889), Armor-Lux, (1947), Orcival (1939) and Le Minor (1922). If you are unsure whether a Breton Shirt is made in France or not, the price and the quality are usually two good indicators. Of course buying it from one of these purveyors is also a safe bet.
Today we have a young Coco Chanel to thank for democratizing the sailor shirt. Before Ms. Chanel arrived on the scene, the sailor top was a uniform item worn exclusively by French sailors. However, in 1913, during a stay on the Normandy coast, Chanel was inspired by the outfits of local seafarers and decided to introduce this motif into her collection. Her garments quickly met with great success and became a must-have in women's wardrobes, thus allowing the pattern to free itself from its completely male military and fishing origins.
By offering the sailor top to her female clientele and comfortably wearing it herself, Chanel helped break down barriers between the sexes in clothing. She offered women a comfortable and elegant alternative to corsets and other restrictive clothing which were the norm at the time.
Today, the sailor top is considered a symbol of elegance and relaxation. Horizontal stripes add a touch of originality to an outfit while maintaining a classic and timeless look.
By the end of World War II, this garment (or variations) became associated with the seaside culture of Brittany and was the "de rigueur" uniform of artists and intellectuals in smoky Left Bank Parsian cafés and beyond. In the decades since, the Marinière has become a timeless classic, photographed on countless celebrities including figures like Pablo Picasso, Kate Middleton and Audrey Hepburn. Furthermore it is continually reinterpreted by contemporary fashion designers.
Today, the Marinière transcends its maritime origins to embody French elegance and panache. Its enduring popularity is a testament to its versatility and timelessness, making it a wardrobe staple for individuals of all ages and backgrounds across the globe. Fashionable Parisian women often wear theirs with jeans, dressing it up with a simple black blazer or a trench coat for an easy work wear outfit, or pairing it with a black-leather biker jacket as a casual weekend look. It can even turn into evening wear in a pinch.
Whether it’s for day or evening, an investment piece or a cheap chain store version, in France, one unbreakable rule prevails. According to the fashion police the marinière must NEVER be worn with any other marine-themed accessories. Super cute dogs are totally ok though!
So don't be afraid to embrace the stripe no matter your background and revel in the fact that you are wearing a great and classic piece of clothing. This shirt endures for a reason!
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